Poole to Manchester

Day 15 Saturday 14/09/2013

Pool to Manchester

Kilometres run – 5

We were up early today to a clear sunny day. We had an early breakfast in the hotel, and then ran to the nearby park to do the Poole Parkrun. We were there early, but others soon arrived, here were a lot of other runners there. The run itself was very flat compared to our usual Heatonpark Parkrun, with two laps round a lake and then round a cricket pitch. I got a PB at 29.34.

 We then went back to the hotel for a quick shower and packed up. We walked to the train station at Poole, got a train to Bournemouth, and then a direct train from there to Manchester. From there we got a local train to Romiley then walked home, arriving about 6.30.  

     

 

   

Poole

Day 14 Friday 13/09/2013

Poole

We spent today looking round Poole. It was very wet first thing, then cleared up during the day. We went back to the shopping centre and I bought a top in Next. We then walked along the front, went in the old lifeboat museum, went to the lifeboat training centre, had a nice lunch, went to the museum and then had a beer. By evening it was very wet. We went back to the same pub as last night to eat and have a few beers, and we then got a taxi back to the hotel as it was so wet.

Swanage to South Haven Point

Day 13 Thursday 12/09/2013

Swanage to South Haven Point

Miles walked – 8

The weather was much better again today. It was a bit cooler and overcast first thing, but it soon cleared up and became warm and sunny. Because we hadn’t had chance to see Swanage the previous night in the rain, we first had a walk along the front, and then paid 80p each to have a walk along the pier.

We then had a gentle climb up onto cliffs leaving Swanage, followed by easy walking along the tops before arriving at a headland where large white rocks jutted out into the sea below, including Old Harry. It was busy round here, with a number of school parties out. After taking photos, it was an easy walk down to Studland bay. We had lunch at a café on the beachfront and then it was a long walk along the beach (the last stretch a naturist beach) before reaching the end of the South West coast path at South Haven Point. After photos at the statue at the end, we got the car ferry to Sandbanks.

We’d aimed for a celebratory beer here, but as there was only one smart looking hotel, and there wasn’t a bus for over an hour, we set off walking towards Poole. However once we left Sandbanks and could see across the bay area to Poole, we could see how far away it was, and so we ordered a taxi to take us to the hotel. We checked in and left our rucksacks before setting off to buy some new clothes. However the nearby Sainsbury’s had very little, and we got to the shopping centre 15 minutes before it closed. Colin bought jeans and a shirt at Primark but I didn’t find anything. We then found a Wetherspoons, and finally had our celebration beer. In the evening we went to the harbour front and found a very nice pub serving fish. We had fish steamed in a parcel with ginger, chillies etc. and cous cous which was very nice. We then had a wander round Poole, found another pub with some music on where we had a whisk, and then headed back to the hotel.

Pub – Wetherspoons and Poole Arms

Beer -          


 

Kimmeridge to Swanage

Day 12 Wednesday 11/09/2013

Kimmeridge to Swanage

Miles walked – 13

It was a bit cooler and breezier today with more cloud, but we were still in shorts and T-shirts for much of the day until about 4, when it started drizzling. It then turned progressively wetter, so we put waterproof jackets on. There wee four other people staying at the B&B and we all sat round one table for breakfast so we had a good chat with them and it was getting on for 10 before we finished breakfast. After packing up quickly, we picked up the sandwiches we’d ordered the previous night from the café, and were on our way by about 10.30. A couple staying in the B&B said they’d heard the first part of the coastal path was shut, and the B&B owner confirmed this and pointed out an alternative route. 

 
 
 


 We set off uphill to follow this and soon picked up a signposted diversion, although it wasn’t in the guidebooks or on the map. This diversion took us up onto low hills overlooking the sea and was easy walking with good views, and there were quite a few people walking round here. Eventually we dropped down to a small village, Kingston, and from there we headed downhill and picked up the main coastal path again. We had to climb up again to get on top of the cliffs.

We found a small remembrance garden with a table and chairs so we had our lunch there, then carried on along the cliff tops towards a headland. Unfortunately there was then a steep drop down numerous stairs, after which we went immediately back up stairs on the other side. I counted 218 steps, so that tired us out a bit. We had a look in the look out post on the headland.

After that it was easy undulating walking along the cliff tops, passing above Dancing Ledge, and on to Durlston. Unfortunately by now it had started raining and it got progressively wetter.

We rounder Durlston Head and started the descent to Swanage, initially though woods and then along roads. By now it was gone 6 and we were quite tired and wet. We found a Co-op to buy breakfast things then headed for the YHA hostel, arriving about 6.45. There was a large school group in the hostel, but we were on the top floor away from them. After a quick shower we headed down the road to the nearest pub, which the hostel had recommended. We had good fish and chips there and a few beers, before heading back up the hill in the rain to the hostel.          

Pub – The White Swan

Beer – Piss    


 

Lulworth Cove to Kimmeridge

Day 11 Tuesday 10/09/2013

Lulworth Cove to Kimmeridge

Miles walked – 13
 

Today we couldn’t follow the coastal path as its shut during the week due to the firing ranges, apart from during the summer school holidays. After breakfast and packing up, we bought a sandwich and cake at the nearby little supermarket, and set off walking about 10. It was sunny at the start, but cooler. It was overcast at times during the day but stayed dry and became sunnier again later on.

The inland diversion route for the South West coast path was marked on our Harvey’s map, but there were no way marks on the ground. We found the path out of Lulworth, and climbed steeply through fields, but then couldn’t pick up the next path. In the end we headed back for the road, and an hour after setting off we were only one mile on from where we’d started. We therefore decided to follow the alternative road route for the next section, which went through woods and was quite pleasant, but hard on the feet and there was quite a bit of traffic. We could hear continuous firing and bombs going off round about. We found a bench at Holme, had our lunch there, then fortunately spotted a sign for a garden centre signposted just up the road, where we went for tea and scones.

 We then had another section of road walking before picking up an off road section. This seemed to go through a firing range and there were various military people about, so Colin asked someone and they said we were fine to go through. We passed through some woods, and saw a deer there, before reaching another road. We then went steeply uphill before picking up another path. This was a bit overgrown, then cleared and we could see the village of Kimmeridge below us. A gentle descent brought us into the village and we soon found our B&B, in a farmhouse. We had a very smart room and the landlady greeted us with a tray of tea and biscuits.

We went to the nearby café for tea at 7pm, called Clovellys, which was also owned by our B&B. This was a restaurant in the evening with about 10 other people in and specialised in serving local food, some from their own farm. I had a very nice seafood linguine and a glass of wine and we then shared a cheeseboard. The café didn’t stay open very late, so we bought two bottles of beer and took these back to the B&B.

Pub – Colvellys cafe     


  

Portland To Lulworth Cove

Day 10 Monday 09/09/2013

Portland to Lulworth Cove

Miles walked – 11

 It was raining first thing today. We had some breakfast at the hostel, packed up and then got the bus into Weymouth, rather than walking back along the main road again off the island that we’d walked along to get ther. We’d made cheese sandwiches for lunch at the hostel, but bought cakes at a bakery in Weymouth for lunch, plus a sausage roll each. We then put on full waterproofs before setting off to walk along the front at Weymouth. It was a long promenade, eventually bringing us to another small bay.

 By then it had stopped raining so we took off our waterproofs and spent the rest of the day in trousers and T-shirts. We then had a couple of miles of gentle ups and downs along the cliffs, before dropping down to Osmington Mills. We ate our lunch there, then sat outside a thatched pub The Smugglers to enjoy a beer. From there the way was more fairly easy walking along the coast, before suddenly finding ourselves stood on top of dramatic white cliffs. There then followed a series of steep climbs followed by very steep drops, as we approached Durdle Door, a large rock with a gap in it reaching out into the sea from the cliff face. It was bust round here with lots of people taking pictures.

After taking various photos, we followed a diversion over a grassy hillside, before dropping down to Lulworth Cove, arriving about 5.30. We were staying higher up in West Lulworth, so we headed to our B&B on reaching the road.

In the evening we headed back down to sea, where we had a very nice meal at the Lulworth Cove Inn. After the met we met three men we had met earlier in the day who were also doing part of the SW coast path, from Portland to the end, so we had another beer and chatted to them for a while, so it turned into a late night compared to other nights.

Accommodation - Downalong

Pub – lunch – The Smugglers Inn, evening – Lulworth Cove Inn

Beer – Fursty Ferret     







 

Portland Circuit

Day 9 Sunday 08/09/2013

Portland circuit

Miles walked – 10

 

It was very wet first thing, but by the time we were ready to go it had stopped, with just a few showers during the day, though cooler than it had been, with sunny spells. Sue Adams and Steve Baynes were in Sidmouth for a week’s holiday, so they drove over to join us for today’s walk, about an hours drive. The walks itself was fairly easy, following the edge of the island along good paths with just a few climbs.

There was a sculpture park near the start in an old quarry, and we watched a group of Dutch sculptures working on some pieces. There were a few sections of the coastal path with diversions inland on, however on the recommendation of some other walkers we ignored some of the signs, and got through fine.

 We had our lunch sat at the lighthouse at the end of the island as Portland Bill, before making our way back round he other side of he island, which was more scenic, past the prison then back round to the hostel, arriving there about 5.15. Sue and Steve then drove back to Sidmouth, while we showered then went down to The Cove again for tea, having booked the previous night. I had paella and garlic bread. We were back at the hostel and in bed by 9.30, so read for a bit before going to sleep.

Accommodation – Portland YHA

Pub – The Cove

Beer - Jurassic            


 

Abbotsbury to Portland

Day 8 Saturday 07/09/2013

Abbotsbury to Portland

Miles walked – 6

Colin’s foot was still sore when we got up, and as it was a long day today of about 15 miles, we decided to get the bus part of the way and walk the rest. The bus was 11.46, so after breakfast (landlady in a rush to get to a local show to see her grandson competing), we went for a look round Abbotsbury. It was cooler today with more breeze, but still sunny, and hot when out of the breeze, so in shorts and T-shirts again. We walked down to the Swannery, but it was £11 to get in, so want worth it for the time we had available. We came back and wandered round the village, very pretty with lots of old stone thatched cottages. We bought cheese baguettes and chocolate cake for lunch, then sat in the sun and waited for the bus. It was only about 15 minutes on the bus to Charlestown where we got off.

 After a bit of wondering around we picked up a path down to the coast and were then back on he coastal path. It was largely flat walking, with the Fleet on our right, a river like strip of water, with Chesil Beach beyond this, a high stone banking, then the sea beyond that. We stopped to eat our lunch, then carried on to Ferry Bridge, where we had a beer in the pub. It was then an easy walk across the bridge and along the main road onto Portland Island. In the large sheltered bay between Portland and Weymouth there were lots of kite surfers out as we watched them as we walked in. we got to the hostel about 4, went to the local Co-op for bread, milk etc. then went back to the hostel for a shower.

We stayed in separate dorms in the hostel, which seemed quite full. The warden recommended The Cove pub for food, so we went down there soon after 7. It was very busy, but we put our name on the waiting list for a table and had a few beers and eventually ate – had a very nice whole sea bass in lemon butter, new potatoes & veg, and a raspberry crème brulee, all very nice, before heading back to the hostel.

 

Accommodation – Portland YHA

Pub – The Cove

Beer - Jurassic         













    

Chideock to Annotsbury

Day 7 Friday 06/09/2013

Chideock to Abbotsbury

Miles walked – 0

When we got up, Colin’s Foot was still very sore, and he was concerned that perhaps his blisters had become infected. The B&B owner suggested that there was a medical centre in Bridport and kindly offered to give us a lift here. We shared out breakfast table with two American women, one a widow, who had come to see where her husband came from. After breakfast we got a lift to the medical centre. We didn’t have to wait long until Colin saw a nurse. She said the foot wasn’t infected, but gave him some iodine dressings. As Colin was still limping, we got a taxi into the centre of Bridport, bought some more dressings for him there at the chemist, then got another taxi to Westport.



This was where they filmed Broadchurch. It had rained overnight but was sunny again during the day by the coast, although quite breezy. We sat on the long stony beach for a while, then had a nice lunch in a café on the front (I had crab sandwiches, Colin a pizza). We then went back out onto the beach. I left Colin there and went for a walk along the beach beneath the cliffs, and up onto the headland, before going to sit with Colin again. It was getting a bit cool in the breeze, so about 4 we went and had a beer in the pub, then got the 5.25 bus to Abbotsbury. Our B&B was in a farm, a very old building. We went to the local pub for a meal in the evening – steak & ale pie, before heading back to the B&B.

Accommodation – East Farm House

Pub – Ibbotson Arms

Beer - ?      


 

Seaton to Chideock

Day 6 Thursday 05/09/2013

Seaton to Chideock

Miles walked – 15

It was sunny from the start today and very warm.

Beach Belles

After a very nice breakfast at the BB we packed up in good time, went to Tesco’s for sandwiches etc. for lunch, and set off walking just before 10. We were expecting today to be quite tough, one guidebook did it over two days. We had a steep climb out of Seaton up a road, then crossed a gold course before starting the path properly. The rest of the morning we followed a narrow path up and down through dense woodland, where there had been numerous landslips over the years. Known as the Under cliffs.

 The woods kept us cooler, and some parts were flat and easy going, but other parts were much more up and down. We passed various notice boards describing what we were passing and what sections we were going through, but really we jut walked through woods without being able to see much else. We arrived at Lyme Regis about 2. we sat on a bench to eat lunch and bought a cold drink to go with it. It was very busy there, and we then walked along the front, passing cafes, people sunbathing etc.


 At the far end of the front we wanted to drop down onto the beach, but they were doing building work there on coastal defenses. Colin spoke to someone and they let us through, so we climbed down onto the beach, and then had to scramble round some rocks past the building works before reaching the beach properly. From there, the tide was out, so we were able to walk all along the beach to Charmouth without diverting inland. We had an ice-cream there, then carried on our way.

Unfortunately the cliff path was shut due to a landslide, so we had to follow a diversion up a very steep single track road that seemed to go on for ever, and had to keep stopping to let cars past. At the top we then turned right towards the coast, and immediately descended again steeply. By the time we were back on the proper coastal path we were tired out, but we then had a final long climb up to the highest point of the entire route at Golden Top.

We finally for to the top about 5.30. After a short break and something to eat we descended to Chideock, using a good path we’d picked up from the maps on Colin’s phone. However by then Colin’s foot was hurting and we had a very slow descent, arriving at the B&B about 6.30. The B&B was lovely, with a thatched roof, and our room had a four poster bed and a bath. After a reviving bath we headed to The George just up the road for excellent fish & chips, before heading back to the BB.                         

Accommodation – Chideock House

Pub – The George

Beer – Planters – IPA & Dorset Gold    

Sidmouth to Seaton

Day 5 Wednesday 04/09/2013

Sidmouth to Seaton

Miles walked – 11

There was a sea mist for much of the morning today, but still warm, but then early afternoon it suddenly cleared and became warm and sunny.

Breakfast was not brilliant. An elderly lady staying, plus a young couple on a tandem. We packed up, & left just before 10, calling in at the bakery for some lunch before setting off walking along Sidmouth front. We met a man walking in the other direction doing the entire coastal path for Help the Heroes, accompanies on this stretch by a military man carrying a flag. We chatted for a bit then carried on.

There were three long hills to get up today, with cliff top paths in between then down again, so quite hard going. After the first two we dropped down to a long stony beach at Weston Mouth. There we sat and had an early lunch before climbing the third hill. The weather then cleared and we dropped down to a busy little beach at Branscombe. We had a pot of tea at the café there before the next climb up. This took us to a very attractive path under cliffs and round Beer head, with a final steep climb up.

We dropped back down to Beer, and sat in the beer garden of The Anchor Inn for a beer. From there, after a short climb up we dropped down to the beach at Seaton Hole. The tide was not yet fully in so we could then walk along the stony beach into Seaton, avoiding the collapsing cliff paths. We arrived at our B&B about 6, where we had a very nice room. After a shower we went out to look for something to eat. There was not a lot of choice, we went to The Shed, a new steak restaurant that was very busy, then to a nearby pub with live music on before heading back to the B&B.     

 

Accommodation – Beach Belles

Pub – afternoon, The Anchor, evening The Royal Clarendon

Beer – Devon Coast